Arrivals & Departures Weekly Travel News & Views 11 February 2025

ON BOARD & OFF

I am writing this on board the Indian Pacific train, heading from Perth to Sydney. You can read the full story on the train’s new itinerary, over five days with four nights on board and with an emphasis on off-train excursions here.

TWO DECADES ON

. . . but, for now, I’m reflecting on the last time I was on this train, more than 20 years ago. I was with singer Jimmy Barnes, on one of the annual “Christmas runs” that the train used to do. When the train stopped, Jimmy jumped out and sang to whoever turned up — a few station hands at Rawlinna; a handful of locals at the rail-side settlement Cook.

CHRISTMAS BONNET

At Rawlinna, back in 2004, one of the station ringers asked Jimmy to sign the bonnet of his ute with a massive marker. He told me he already had a spare bonnet — the signed one was to be removed and hung on the wall of his lounge room.

WOODSY’S WONDER

Woodsy, one of the four assistant caretakers at Cook and himself a singer, was pretty amused by that story, when I met him at 11pm. The train had stopped and those of us still awake got off to get some red dust on our boots in the still-warm, starstruck night. (The thought of rock ‘n’ roll is appropriate enough, as the Indian Pacific does just that through the night.)

Deep in the interior of the continent, Cook, on the Nullarbor Plain in South Australia, was established in 1917 as a service point for the Trans-Australian Railway. It was named for Australia’s sixth prime minister, Joseph Cook. The town was effectively “closed” in 1977, when Australian National Railways’ assets were sold to the private company Australian Southern Railroad.

INLAND TO ANIMALS

Journey Beyond has also just added Monarto Safari Resort to its portfolio of luxury accommodation and lodges in Australia. It will manage South Australia’s newest tourism build, with 78 guest rooms in the hotel and 20 luxury tents in a safari lodge overlooking the new Wild Africa precinct of Monarto Safari Park.

With more than 500 exotic and Australian native animals, the safari park team claims it is the biggest open-range safari experience outside Africa. The 1500ha, open-range zoo is near Murray Bridge about 75km east of Adelaide.

The Indian Pacific is run by Journey Beyond, which has been in the news with the report into the freak boating accident at Horizontal Falls, in the Kimberley, that it also operates.

TOURISM GIVES BACK

In WA, the Forum Advocating Cultural and Eco-Tourism (FACET) has announced its 2025 Regenerative Tourism Forum — an event dedicated to advancing sustainable, community-focused tourism practices across Australia. It is being held on February 20, 2025, at Mandoon Estate in the Swan Valley. Its focus is “Tourism that gives back”. facet.asn.au

HEALING POWDER

Reader Glenys noticed that in one of these columns I mentioned Medipulv (and EDP) antiseptic powder. She writes: “After a mishap and a loss of skin that looked nasty, I used the powder and within two days the wound was nearly healed. Thank you very much. It is kept in my travel bag.”

CUT TO IT

Sharp-eyed readers spotted, in last week’s Travel supplement, a reference to a Morakniv knife. All those going on Alone Australia TV show adviser Gordon Dedman’s bushcraft survival courses get to keep one. Our readers have been asking for confirmation that this is a good cutting tool for the bush and remote travel. Morakniv is a Swedish company which has been making sharp knives since 1891. Its story began when Frost-Erik Erson returned home to the village of Ostnor in Mora after four years in North America and started making timber sleds, which needed sharp tools — the start of what became Morakniv.

I must point out there is a difference between the Morakniv Companion Heavy Duty knife (which Gordon includes) and the Morakniv Companion. The heavy-duty model, pictured in its sheath below, is more robust, with a thick (3.2mm) carbon steel blade. I have a Morakniv Companion Heavy Duty and advise anyone getting one to get a sheath at the same time. They should be a bit under $45 online.

COMEBACK ANNOUNCED

Out here, in the middle of nowhere (perhaps the middle of everywhere?) I have just received an email from Tourist Israel: “Now’s your chance! Experience the Holy Land without all the crowds as tourism in Israel makes its long-awaited comeback.”

MONTREUX SPECIAL

In this, its centenary year, tour company Tauck has a river cruise to coincide with the Montreux Jazz Festival. This one special departure of Rhine Connoisseur: Brussels to Montreux includes three nights at the Fairmont le Montreux Palace during the festival. On the shores of Lake Geneva in Switzerland, it’s where many artists stay. The 2025 artist line-up has yet to be announced but previous performers include Bob Dylan and Lionel Richie. The special departure includes a dinner reception at the Claude Nobs Chalets, where Prince, Freddie Mercury, David Bowie and many other music icons have been guests. It is full of music memorabilia. The 11-day Rhine Connoisseur: Montreux to Brussels is from $11,990 per person. Tickets to the festival are not included, and usually go on sale in mid-April on the Montreux Jazz Festival website. tauck.com

Some readers might know the Deep Purple song Smoke On The Water, which was inspired by the Montreux Casino fire in December 1971. Smoke forced band members out of their rooms. In 2004, Jimmy Barnes recorded an album with Deep Purple guitarist Steve Morse.

TRUE JOIE DE VIVRE

Uniworld Boutique River Cruises has a new itinerary for the River Seine in France for this northern summer. Magical Parisian Holiday is a seven-night round-trip from Paris. On board the super, bespoke ship SS Joie de Vivre (which I’ve sailed on), there is a visit to Christmas markets and curated shopping experiences. In Paris, there is a private tour of the Palace of Versailles, with access to secret apartments usually closed to the public. The trip includes a walking tour of Rouen, home to artist Claude Monet’s studio, a private choral performance in Rouen Cathedral and a private reception at Chateau de Bizy. The ship can take up to 128 guests and the voyage is from $7899 per person, twin share. uniworld.com and 1300 780 231.